a question for the embroiderers
Jun. 3rd, 2011 06:36 pmI know I have people reading this blog who spin, crochet, weave, knit, and sew; I figure odds are good at least a couple of you embroider.
How would you recommend going about embroidering this figure?

Assume a smallish size -- maybe two inches in diameter. I'd love to hear what types of stitch you would use where, in what order, and bonus points for specifying whether it's what an experienced embroiderer would do, or what a hypothetical embroiderer who used to know about three stitches fifteen years ago might have an easier time with. (Not that we know anybody fitting that description, nosirree.) I'm mostly concerned with making the end result look good; cutting corners to make it less of a pain in the ass is not necessary. :-)
I'm not even sure how to effectively transfer the design to the material (which is dark grey, and will be embroidered in white) -- I'm almost tempted to print it onto thin paper and then just stitch straight over that. Is this a bad idea?
(The whole project is probably a bad idea, for the aforementioned reason of three stitches semi-mastered fifteen years ago. But it's not like I've ever done anything crazy in the textiles department before.
kurayami_hime, remember the Greek key belt?)
How would you recommend going about embroidering this figure?

Assume a smallish size -- maybe two inches in diameter. I'd love to hear what types of stitch you would use where, in what order, and bonus points for specifying whether it's what an experienced embroiderer would do, or what a hypothetical embroiderer who used to know about three stitches fifteen years ago might have an easier time with. (Not that we know anybody fitting that description, nosirree.) I'm mostly concerned with making the end result look good; cutting corners to make it less of a pain in the ass is not necessary. :-)
I'm not even sure how to effectively transfer the design to the material (which is dark grey, and will be embroidered in white) -- I'm almost tempted to print it onto thin paper and then just stitch straight over that. Is this a bad idea?
(The whole project is probably a bad idea, for the aforementioned reason of three stitches semi-mastered fifteen years ago. But it's not like I've ever done anything crazy in the textiles department before.
no subject
Date: 2011-06-04 02:07 am (UTC)We have now summed up the embroidery knowledge I'm able to recall.
Speaking of "crazy" projects: I'm crocheting what is basically a king-sized bedspread. All rows of singles. Finished size will be roughly 8.3 feet long by 7.3 feet wide. I've only got 14" left. Oi.
no subject
Date: 2011-06-04 02:37 am (UTC)Depending on whether or not you want the design to be filled in or only outlined, there are a few different options. If you want it to be filled in, the best thing I could think of would be satin stitch. That would give you a fairly smooth texture and is probably the easiest way to fill in a space. If you want only the outline, there are a number of stitches you could use, the easiest of which is probably the backstitch, although that's not particularly interesting. If you want a more finished look, you could use the chain stitch or (one of my favorites) the split stitch. I'm sure there are others too, but that's what occurs to me off the top of my head.
I don't know how standardized the names of those stitches are, since I'm drudging up knowledge from a book I haven't looked at in several years, so if any of the above requires further explanation let me know.
As for the transfer of the design, I wouldn't sew over the paper. Not that I've tried it, but it would most likely leave bits of paper behind (especially if you went with satin stitch)and leave bigger holes than you'd want where your needle pokes through the fabric. I've never used it, but a lot of craft/sewing stores have paper which you can put through your computer printer and make your own iron on transfers. If you can't find that, then there's always chalk and tracing paper. :D
no subject
Date: 2011-06-04 02:50 am (UTC)As for transfering, there are pens out there that transfer white via iron on, but for something that small, you probably won't get a good transfer. You can also find a black or other colored iron-on transfer pen--Google for them; they're hard to find in stores. Again, the small size is against you with that intricate of detail. If you choose to trace, remember that the symbol will be inverted, so trace on the BACK of the copy, not the front. :)
An embroiderer answers LOL
Date: 2011-06-04 03:26 am (UTC)Two inches is going to be very small to work with. Given that size, I can think of two ways to do the design. (Nice design btw). One is to use satin stitch to stitch the bird. You'd probably need to use one strand of 6 strand floss. This might still be too big for the design. I've actually done embroidery using size 60 sewing thread. That might be a better option for satin stitch.
The other choice is to use white fabric and stitch the white lines in grey using couching stitch. You probably could get away with using size 8 pearl cotton for the line, and sewing thread as your couching thread. If you need the background to be grey, you could applique the finished embroidery onto a grey piece of fabric or do some other sort of stitching to surround the bird.
Last piece of couching I did, I copied the design onto copier paper, and couched thru it. It was easy enough to remove after the couching was done.
Also remember, you are going to need very fine, densely woven fabric.
Hope this helps!
Joann Loos
joannl@efn.org
Re: An embroiderer answers LOL
Date: 2011-06-04 09:03 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-06-04 03:32 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-06-04 03:37 am (UTC)I have done one embroidery piece, Screw Perfect. I would satin-stitch everything, assuming it's small enough to look good, and I'd try to make the stitches go with the wings. I'd probably backstitch the outline of the body area before satin-stitching to make it a little more three-dimensional. Because I like stem stitch, I'd do stem stitch around the satin stitch. I'm a big fan of stem stitch-- it looks nice and ropy. I can't see the beak well enough to tell if I'd do couching stitch or something else, nor can I really think of what else it would be if satin stitch didn't work.
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Date: 2011-06-04 04:09 am (UTC)I'll be in the corner, thinking about running vine embroidery and twitching, if you need me.
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Date: 2011-06-04 08:58 am (UTC)Though technically I did a hell of a lot of backstitch for one costume piece while playing Ree. But that was all straight lines -- much easier than this.
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Date: 2011-06-04 04:38 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-06-04 09:00 am (UTC)In case this results in me wanting to light the piece in question on fire, however, I will keep your very generous offer in mind.
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Date: 2011-06-04 04:57 am (UTC)Pretty!
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Date: 2011-06-04 03:53 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-06-05 11:58 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-06-04 03:52 pm (UTC)If your satin stitch is as irregular as mine was as a child, you can fill with rows of chain stitch. Since the chain "links" are round, that technique is more forgiving of an "organic" look.
They do make paper that's designed for stuff like this, it dissolves in water, so you tear out the big pieces and then just wash the garment. However, I've had very good luck using a Prismacolor pencil in a color that contrasts with the cloth. It lasts longer than chalk, but does not last forever. For a 2" piece, you probably would not have to touch it up before finishing but if you did, that's not a big deal. And, to my mind, any product that will leave permanent lines (so if you don't completely cover them with the thread, they'll always be visible) is a much worse thing than touching up the guide-lines halfway through.
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Date: 2011-06-05 02:57 am (UTC)no subject
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Date: 2011-06-07 10:06 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-06-08 05:51 am (UTC)no subject
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